by Brooklyn Museum

Diamond Engagement Rings Antique Style - New Look At Some Old Favorites

Few recent requests about antique looking modern engagement ring motivated me to write this article and try to determine the elements forming this updated antique style and where they come from.  I am talking about antique flair diamond rings rather than real antique pieces and to distinguish the two in this article, I will address them as Updated antiques. The antique components in nearly all of the updated antique pieces come from one or more of the following three style periods:: Victorian (1837-  1901), Edwardian (1901-1918) and Art Deco (1920-1930). These three style periods coexist  with other well known style movements from these eras.

Victorian Style is known by the first appearance of many not European cultural styles recognized trough this period: Neo-Etruscan, Neo-Assyrian, Neo-Indian etc. The components shaping The Victorian style in jewelry are harmonious floral elements, sometime borrowed directly from the nature, insects with dragonfly being the preferred, birds and serpents. These designs are often spiced up by elements from the cultures noted above. There is wide use of colors in the form of gemstones or/and enamel.  The components used in contemporary ring designs are by and large, engraved floral accents positioned symmetrically on both sides and sometimes around the central stone. Victorian rings are normally not wide and have specific lacy appearance.

Edwardian style overlaps with the well known Art Nouveau style. This is the era of industrialization finishing with World War I. Although still employed, the organic components in Edwardian jewelry are not necessarily symmetrical and are well stylized, meaning the organic element is interpreted by the designer and frequently used in conjunction with abstract forms. The newly developed diamond cuts boost the use of pave jeweled elements. There are plenty of these elements applied in updated antique pieces. The pave studded shanks with refined floral ingredients are borrowed from this era. Millegrained edges within the pave are frequent, but this technique is fully employed in Art Deco Jewelry. Millegrain edging or finish is a very old technique widely used today to produce antique look on a jewelry piece. It is accomplished by running a small patterned steel wheel over the precut edges of the design, leaving behind imprinted row of minute beads on the soft precious metal. Millegrain edging broadcasts elaborate and sophisticated appearance and intricate detail.

Art Deco is a short but spectacular style and is still widely in use in modern jewelry pieces. This style is characterized by geometrical forms, architectural multilevel structure and clean shadow lines. Millegrain edging is applied in almost every Art Deco inspired piece.  It is also worth mentioning the limited use of color as well as the Neo-Egyptian style revival trough this era. Black and white are preferred colors for Art Deco jewelry with onyx, diamonds and platinum as preferred media. While there is use of many components from the previous two styles in updated antique rings, Art Deco is often used on its own without any modern interference.  My view is that Art deco is the foremost style for emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

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